turned red and yellow. la feria de abrile. fantastico. women and men for a week wearing tight sexy traditional flamenco dresses and suits throughout the city, sipping coffee like its 1500. horses and carriages, adorned in red, yellow, pink flowers, carrying nonnas and little girls clapping and singing flamenco together. walking thru streets, and seeing a group of friends outside a cafe, brreaking out into a song while sipping their wine and beer. walking into a dark, 70s styled bar, full of older men wearing suits, smoking, listening to old man playing guitar, singing like coyote, fed chocolate because i stopped to listen.
la feria at night: invited into casetas to dance sevilliana flamenco till 7 in the morning, drinking tinto verano, eating churros con chocolato, met italians, french, a german admirer who went a bit crazy in love, but took me to see the authentic cafe where, packed with people shoulder to shoulder to see 70 year old owner, face dripping in makeup, kicking out whoever was not drinking, sing. she sang like she was 20, with 7 men behind her, young and old, all united, sexy, and very proud, upright shoulders, hair long. " listen to his voice, this is a man. he makes george clooney look like a girl."
snuck into the first bullfight of the season. he who let me in was so excited to see me quinch in disgust and approval- telling me at which moment i should snap a picture, gushed compliments to my guy friend, who waited outside, that i was a women very special. for all he knew we could have been boyfriend and girlfriend, but instead cared only to compliment my friend where a compliment is fitting. how nice and refreshing these people are. i was told "your spirit gets into the hearts of these old men and makes them want to charm a girl one last time" this at least, was worth the smile.